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Japanese Gastronomy: Precision, Subtlety, and Modernity


Japanese gastronomy

If there's one cuisine that intrigues, fascinates, and arouses the admiration of the greatest European chefs, it's Japanese cuisine. Yet, behind the familiar image of sushi and dashi broth lies a world of dizzying technical and cultural richness. Japanese gastronomy is not a simple collection of dishes: it's a thought of taste, an art of gesture, an intimate connection with nature and the seasons.


Why do Japanese chefs spend ten years learning how to cook rice? Why do we talk about seasonality not in months, but in weeks? How does a cuisine based on humility, shadow, and silence inspire the greatest names on the global gastronomic scene today?



Historical Foundations and Structure of the Japanese Meal

Japanese gastronomy was not born from a single movement, but from several cultural layers superimposed over the centuries. The Jōmon (縄文) culture, based on hunting, gathering, and fermentation, is one of the oldest to have laid the foundations of a ritual relationship with food. The Yayoi (弥生, c. 300 to 300 BC) period introduced rice cultivation, which would become the backbone of the Japanese diet to this day.


Buddhism, which arrived in the 6th century, profoundly changed habits: meat became taboo, and vegetables, seaweed, and grains gained in importance. From this emerged shōjin ryōri (精進料理), an ascetic vegetarian cuisine developed in Zen temples, which emphasizes purity, seasonality, and respect for ingredients.


In medieval times, the warrior nobility codified a style of sumptuous and ceremonial dining: honzen ryōri (本膳料理), served on several lacquered platters. Then, with the refinement of Kyoto and the rise of the tea ceremony, kaiseki ryōri (懐石料理) was born, a refined and poetic form of multi-course dining, structured around season, texture, and rhythm.


kaiseki meal
“The structure of a kaiseki meal is like that of a short poem: each dish is a verse, each taste a silence.” — Hirohisa Koyama, chef of Aoyagi

The ichijū sansai (一汁三菜) structure, consisting of a soup, three side dishes, rice, and condiments, became widespread during the Edo period (江戸時代). This simple but balanced model allows for the creation of complete and varied meals, while emphasizing simplicity, home-cooked meals, and harmonious flavors.


But in Japan, a meal isn't limited to its elements. Presentation is a matter of atmosphere. It relies on asymmetry (非対称), visual rhythm, contrast between materials and colors, and the harmony between the food and its container. The choice of bowl, plate, and platter is as important as the dish itself: it reflects the season (季節), the setting, and the intention. The tableware, often handcrafted by local artisans, becomes an extension of the cuisine.


Thus, the structure of the Japanese meal is both codified and alive. It provides the chef with a framework within which to express himself with freedom, humility, and precision. It transforms the act of eating into an aesthetic, sensory, and even spiritual experience.



Regional diversity and extreme seasonality

Japan is not a homogenous culinary entity. Its geography, stretching over 3,000 km from north to south, generates an immense variety of products, techniques, and flavors. Each region has its own cuisine, often centered on seafood, seasonal vegetables, and traditional preservation methods.


  • Hokkaido (北海道): Dairy products rare in Japan, seafood, crab (kani, 蟹) and sea urchin (uni, 雲丹) cultivation. Robust soups and nourishing dishes such as jingisukan (ジンギスカン).

  • Kansai (関西, Kyoto/Osaka): extreme finesse, importance of kombu (昆布) from Hokkaidō in dashi (出汁), tradition of obanzai (おばんざい, small family dishes served at room temperature).

  • Kyūshū (九州): sweeter cuisine, frequent use of pork (ton, 豚), Chinese influences. Red miso (aka miso, 赤味噌), tonkotsu ramen (豚骨ラーメン).

  • Okinawa (沖縄): diet considered one of the healthiest in the world, based on goya (ゴーヤ, bitter melon), mozuku seaweed (モズク), pork, and medicinal infusions (sanpin-cha, さんぴん茶).


typical Okinawan dish
“Eating a dish is also hearing the story of a territory.” — Zaiyu Hasegawa, chef at Den (Tokyo)

But beyond geography, it is perhaps seasonality (季節, kisetsu) that most profoundly defines Japanese cuisine. While in the West we speak of four seasons, the traditional Japanese calendar divides the year into 24 micro-seasons, called sekki (節気), derived from the Sino-Japanese lunar calendar. Each sekki lasts approximately 15 days and reflects subtle changes in nature: "budding of plum trees," "hatching of frogs," "first mists of autumn."


This extreme approach to seasonality is reflected in menus, produce, and presentation, right down to the choice of tableware and fabric patterns. A chef will refuse to use seaweed or fish outside of its peak season, even if the product is available. A matsutake mushroom (松茸) is not served until it is fully ripe, nor an ayu (鮎, freshwater fish) after summer.


“The season is not a date. It’s a moment when the taste is just right.” — Hiroyuki Kanda, chef at Kanda (Tokyo)

Processing techniques: fermentation, cutting, maturation

Japanese food processing techniques reflect a philosophy of time, respect for raw materials, and the pursuit of umami. They do not aim to dominate the ingredient, but to reveal its latent potential. Three main axes emerge: fermentation, cutting, and maturation—each requiring extreme artisanal precision.


Fermentation (発酵, hakkō)

Omnipresent in Japanese cuisine, fermentation is not limited to taste: it transforms textures, extends preservation, and develops a unique aromatic depth. Miso (味噌), soy sauce (shōyu, 醤油), rice vinegar (su, 酢), sake (酒), fermented vegetables (tsukemono, 漬物), natto (納豆) and katsuobushi (鰹節) are all the result of complex processes, based on the work of microorganisms.


At the heart of this invisible world: kōji (麹), a domesticated fungus (Aspergillus oryzae) that transforms starch into sugars and releases amino acids, notably glutamate. It is the basis of Japanese taste. Mastering it requires absolute hygiene, and a sense of humidity, time, and temperature close to that of a goldsmith.


Chefs like Yoshihiro Narisawa and Shinobu Namae are now using fermentation in modern dishes, combining shio-kōji (塩麹), miso, or amazake (甘酒) with Western products.


miso fermentation
“Fermenting is listening to what nature already knows how to do.” — Shinobu Namae, chef at L’Effervescence (Tokyo)

Cutting (包丁技術, hōchō gijutsu)

Cutting is one of the most codified disciplines in Japanese cuisine. It is the subject of a true ritual apprenticeship. The choice of knife (hōchō, 包丁) depends on the type of food and the required gesture:


  • Yanagiba (柳刃包丁) for sashimi

  • Deba (出刃包丁) for whole fish

  • Usuba (薄刃包丁) for vegetables


The cutting angle, the pressure, the direction of the grain, the texture of the flesh: everything is designed to avoid damaging the food. The blade becomes an extension of the chef's intention. The ideogram for "cut" (切) also contains the notion of respect.


Japanese fish cutting
"A well-cut fish is a fish that melts without defending itself." — Tetsuya Saotome, tempura master (Tokyo)

Maturation (熟成, jukusei)

Long ignored or taboo in the world of fish, maturation is making a spectacular comeback in Japanese haute cuisine. Inspired by the maturation of meats and cheeses in Europe, chefs like Hiroyuki Sato (Hakkoku) and Koji Kimura (Kimura Sushi) practice long maturations of raw fish, sometimes up to 2 to 3 weeks.


This maturation transforms the texture, concentrates the flavors, and increases the umami naturally present in the flesh. This is called "controlled enzymatic fermentation." Kombu seaweed (昆布), placed directly on the fish, serves as a glutamate diffusion agent and accentuates this gentle transformation.


fish maturation Japan
“The fish must speak before it is eaten. I listen to it ferment.” — Hiroyuki Sato, sushi chef

Umami: the invisible backbone

Scientifically identified by Professor Kikunae Ikeda (池田 菊苗) in 1908, umami (旨味) refers to this fifth fundamental taste, different from sweet (甘味), salty (塩味), sour (酸味), and bitter (苦味). Literally, umami means "savory taste." But it would be reductive to consider it a simple flavor: it is a sensory structure, an invisible backbone that supports and prolongs the taste in the mouth.


In Japanese cuisine, umami is not manifested as a seasoning, but as a structure of taste. It results from the presence of amino acids, mainly:

  • glutamate (グルタミン酸) present in kombu (昆布), miso (味噌), fermented vegetables,

  • inosinate (イノシン酸), contained in katsuobushi (鰹節), meats, certain fish,

  • guanylate (グアニル酸), which is found in dried shiitake mushrooms (椎茸).


When combined in a dish—for example, dashi (出汁) made from kombu and dried bonito—these compounds create a synergistic effect that multiplies the flavor power, without adding salt or fat.


Dashi, the fundamental broth of washoku, embodies this philosophy. It is prepared as a gentle infusion to maintain the balance of molecules:

  • Kombu is soaked cold or heated to 60-70°C,

  • Then the katsuobushi is infused off the heat,

  • The liquid is filtered without pressure to maintain its clarity.


This clear, light, and deeply flavorful broth becomes the basis for soups, sauces, and marinades. It also serves as a base for vegetarian dishes, savory jellies, infused soft-boiled eggs, and creams.


Umami blends seamlessly with all styles of cooking. This is why it's now being embraced in plant-based, gluten-free, and dairy-free cuisines, as well as in French haute cuisine seeking intensity with lightness. It allows you to:

  • reduce salt,

  • avoid excess fat,

  • prolong the aftertaste in the mouth,

  • build a dish around a clear aromatic axis.


unami
"I don't look for a strong taste. I look for a taste that lasts a long time, without weighing it down." — Yoshihiro Murata, chef of Kikunoi (菊乃井, Kyoto)

Tableware, silence and hospitality: the invisible stage of taste

If Japanese taste impresses with its techniques, it also touches us with everything that surrounds it and that we don't taste directly: the dishes, the atmosphere, the calm gestures of the service, the absence of unnecessary noise. The meal is a whole, a moment of silent aesthetics.


Tableware (器, utsuwa)

Each piece of Japanese tableware is carefully chosen for its color, texture, seasonality, and the way it echoes the dish. An autumn soup might be served in a rough brown bowl, a spring sashimi in an enameled plate with cherry blossom highlights. The intentional imperfection of wabi-sabi (侘寂) is often sought after, highlighting the art of the impermanent.


"I don't choose a plate because it's beautiful. I choose it because it lets my dish breathe." — Yoshihiro Narisawa


The silence of the service

Unlike some Western traditions where service is theatrical, in Japan it is almost invisible. Service is wordlessly delivered, with a discreet bow. The customer is respected in their concentration on taste. The sound of a wooden lid being gently lifted, the simmering of rice in a donabe (土鍋): everything contributes to the sensory experience.


Omotenashi (おもてなし)

This difficult-to-translate word expresses sincere hospitality, the anticipation of the guest's needs, and the cook's self-effacement behind the attention paid to others. It is not calculated service, but a posture of the heart.


omotenashi
"Omotenashi means serving without waiting, and thanking before being thanked." — Hiroshi Ishida, master chef in Kyoto

In Japanese haute cuisine, these invisible elements are essential. They give the meal its emotional depth. And for many foreign chefs, it's this silent, almost spiritual scene that drives them to return to Japan again and again, in search not just of taste, but of attitude.


 

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